Frequently Asked Questions

All of the hens we rescue whether free range, caged or barn are fully vaccinated - we do however advise that all hens are wormed and treated for lice when you take them home. Caged hens will have had no contact with wild birds but free range hens will have.

At the time of our rescues the hens are either moulting or coming into a moult, they may be shedding some feathers or be quite bald. Egg production at this time falls as they need calcium for new feather growth and feathers take a few weeks to regrow.

Their combs, especially caged hens, can be floppy and a pale pink colour. It doesn't take long for their combs to go red once the hens experience natural daylight and fresh air.

Caged hens have lived in very cramped conditions, only having a small area to move around in. This can lead to bruising of their limbs which will subside with rest. They can be injured during the rescue, as they are unacustomed to being handled and being plucked from the cage which has been their only home for their whole life and put into transport crates is extremely stressful for them.

We never knowingly rehome an injured or sick hen and always advise re homers, should any of their hens be unwell to contact a vet should they be unable to treat them themselves with simple home remedies.

Layers pellets or mash is an ideal complete feed for your hens - whilst in the commercial environment they have not experienced treats a small amount of mixed corn can be given but is not essential.

Feeders should be removed overnight to rodent proof containers and any spillages of food cleared up whilst drinkers should be washed thoroughly each night and returned with fresh clean water each morning.

The right housing for your hens really depends on the amount of space you have, the number of hens you want to keep and of course, your budget. Whatever you choose it must be sturdy, predator proof have nesting boxes, roosting perches and adequate ventilation.

Due the possibility of avian flu outbreaks we should all keep in mind that although we love our hens to free range when possible, we  recommend that a coop with a run attached that can be covered should be considered.

There are many types of coops available. Do your research before buying anything. Whatever you choose, don’t forget to NEVER have a felted roof, as red mites thrive in the layer beneath the felt and come out to feed on the hens at night.

Bedding for your hens should always be kept dry. Damp soiled bedding  should be removed to prevent build up of ammonia . Daily poo-picking is recommended but coops should also be emptied of all bedding and replenished with fresh after cleaning and disinfecting weekly.

Whether you are integrating new hens with an existing flock or taking on  hens for the first time there will be a period of adjustment for them all.

If you are rescuing a caged hen, they will be completely bewildered being outside let alone being introduced to a group of strange, unfriendly hens. They will not necessarily have the strength or skills to perch, hide or escape from the rest of the flock if needed. They will need longer to ‘rehabilitate’ to their surroundings before they are fully introduced to their new family.

Despite being very social creatures who enjoy the companionship of a flock, there is a pecking order to establish. Once each hen knows it's place in the flock they will settle knowing who is the top hen and who is lower ranking.

For those who already have an established flock, then sometimes it helps if they can all see and hear each other albeit through chicken wire or fencing.

When merging all hens together make sure that there are hiding places for the less confident, extra feeders and drinkers to ensure that everyone gets a fair share and distractions in the form of things to climb on and hanging veg to nibble on. This should help take their minds of picking on the lower ranks.There will inevitably be some scuffles though, so you should be around to keep an eye on things. It is also a good idea to put lots of vaseline on the combs and wattles of the hens fighting, as this will allow the beaks to slide off with minimal damage.